I have spent about a year of my life in Jordan, but nothing scares me more than the driving. Even walking around and crossing the streets can be dangerous if you don’t know what to look for. Here I have written my most annoying useful tips on surviving driving in Jordan.
There are lanes, but not really
Without cars, Jordanian roads look just like everywhere else. Once cars are introduced, a four lane highway can turn into 6 with people going over the median and going the wrong way. It’s aggressive and slightly terrifying.
Horn speak
Horns are honking CONSTANTLY. Meanings include but are not limited to “thank you,” “move it,” “I’m here,” “you’re there,” “I’m breathing,” “hi,” “bye,” “go,” “stop.”
Medians are just another lane suggestion
Non-existent. If there is a wreck (or even slow traffic), people will drive across the median on the highway and drive upstream on the opposite side of the road.
What’s jay-walking?
I couldn’t figure out how there weren’t more accidents with pedestrians in Jordan. It seems like they can just walk across busy roads all willy nilly and get to the other side unscathed. Well I got my answer from a guy who was walking with me to the closest ATM. All he does is put out a fist or a “crab hand,” and the drivers just slowed down. This even worked at night! So, if you’re reading this because you plan to rent a car for driving in Jordan, PLEASE keep a look out for pedestrians. They will step out in front of you and expect you to stop for them.
Camel crossing
Camels are awesome. You will definitely see some hanging out on the side of the road or crossing in front of you. Sometimes herds of sheep or goats will have to cross roads as well. Practice your patience and take a picture or two.
Swerve driving
One minute people will be in the painted lanes, the next moment you’ll be trying to figure out how a new lane appeared in between you and the person next to you. Don’t be afraid when people are constantly swerving between existing and non-existing lanes to try to get ahead faster.
Inconsistent speed
People in Jordan love to speed up and then slam on their brakes trying to get to the front of a light or just pass people on the road. You definitely don’t need cruise control here.
Random speed bumps
You will find speed bumps EVERYWHERE. It can be nice since there are crazy drivers, but some will catch you off guard. Keep your eyes peeled.
Passing on switchbacks
I don’t know if this is a normal thing other places too, but I have NEVER seen someone pass another car in the middle of a switchback on a hill where you can’t see around the bend. I don’t suggest anyone to do it, but just be aware that you might get passed if you’re deemed “too slow.”
Blinkers?
Forget it. Expect to be cut off without warning, a lot.
Seatbelts optional
Seatbelts are not always worn while driving in Jordan. In fact, oftentimes you’ll see people in the back of trucks or other out-of-the-norm seating arrangements. Don’t be worried if you see small children standing on the back seat and moving around, that’s just the norm. At least the camels get seatbelts…
Have any other do’s, don’ts, or suggestions? Drop them below!
Looking for specific destinations? Check out this Petra post.
Haha I got a few good chuckles from reading your post because I’ve been to similar places and know exactly what you’re talking about. It’s so interesting how horn speak can be drastically different in different regions of the world. I really struggled to figure it out in Morocco because it did seem like people honked for everything – “hi” “bye” “stop” “go” – literally everything. I’ve only been to Jordan once and luckily didn’t have to drive there, and now I know not to rent a car when I go back!
If you can avoid renting a car, that’ll definitely be best. I don’t recommend driving yourself if you’re not used to it!
Reading your post I felt I was reading about India. Unfortunately, it’s same here – continuous honking and no-rules following. Although, camels are only found in our deserts. Driving in Jordan does look very adventurous and risky at the same time. Not sure if I’ll be up for it.
Really? I could see the similarities there. No thank you! haha
Jordan sounds more like India. I can expect the unexpected happening on the road anytime while I am driving here.Bumping into camels would be so scary for sure. I can take the heavy traffic, stray animals , no-blinkers and all while driving but cannot fathom why people honk when the signal shows a red !
RIGHT?! Like take your hand off the horn and relax buddy. I don’t get it!
Please tell me you can rent a driver with a car in Jordan while travelling on Budget. I can’t imagine driving there, so scared just by reading this article. It just sounds like driving on some busy intercity highway in India, just while being cautious of camels.
Oh yes! I just started writing about a “tour” I took that was basically just a private driver, just so I wouldn’t have to drive! It’s definitely scary.
these are some really good tips to drive in Jordan. I also pray for Road tripping when I go to many countries, but I have not thought of doing the same in Jordan, the main reason being there are too many accidents noted. But as you have listed down the tips to drive safely in Jordan, I think I can take the risk.
Thank you! I agree it’s pretty insane. I don’t really suggest it unless it’s something you NEED to or REALLY want to do.
We have visited Jordan but we were on a tour (not our usual way of travelling but an older family member chose and booked the holiday). We visited at a quiet time from a tourism perspective, so didn’t see the craziness of the roads at their worse, I’d be too scared to drive in that. The poor lane discipline and crazed honking is terrifying! As for signaling to let others know what you’re doing, that seems completely absent!!!
Agreed! I ended up taking a couple of “tours” (as they were really just a driver taking me places since no one else booked) just so I wouldn’t have to drive!
This sounds a lot like driving in egypt! And yes totally plenty of vehicles with no seatbelts rolling around picking up people (even the ‘bus’ people took to work was just an old van with no seatbelts and seats removed so more people could fit. I certainly did not want to drive there-nor even walk across streets in the big cities but great opportunity for you to become a super driver right?! 🙂
I can imagine! Maybe it’s a Middle East / desert area thing. I suppose if you look at it that way… then yes! haha
Great photo of the camels with their seatbelts. Umm, I think I would not drive in Jordan. I thought China was bad but Jordan tops it. Great article.
Thanks, really glad I got that picture! I can totally imagine how crazy driving in China might bet, but Jordan is insane too. Definitely don’t suggest it if you don’t have to.
I am not really planning on driving to Jordan but these are good to know things. I think horn speak is very common in the middle east. I have observed that when I was in Oman.
Yea I definitely don’t suggest trying to drive yourself, but being a pedestrian can be just as scary!
Hope you weren’t driving in Jordan when you were there? Sounds out of control. Love my mosaic you got me in Madaba Jordan…is that how it is spelled? 🙂
No, I was just the pedestrian trying to survive and traveling with someone else who drove. haha and glad you like it! Working on a post about that right now…
The best way to drive in Jordan is to be in a bigger vehicle than everyone else. Raptors are a good choice.
Fact. Law of gross tonnage!